3D Knitwear: How 3D Printing Is Revolutionizing the Fashion Industry

In recent years, 3D printing has become growingly everpresent. From medicine, aerospace, to design, and construction — every day there’s news about breakthroughs, innovations, and developments in the additive manufacturing industry. However, in one particular industry, it’s still pretty quiet regarding developments around 3D printing. We’re talking about the fashion industry. It cannot be denied that the first experiments and advances in 3D printed clothing have only been recorded relatively recently. Yet, if you have followed these developments in fashion a little more closely, you may have noticed that these are high-end fashion, i.e. clothing created for the runways and red carpet and not for everyday wear. The reason why the combination of 3D printing and clothing seems so difficult is quite simple: The materials used in 3D printing, mostly plastic, and metal, are not flexible enough. To counteract this problem, some fashion and 3D enthusiasts have been looking into suitable options and ultimately honed in on one solution: 3D knitwear. But, what exactly is 3D knitwear? How does its production method differ from additive manufacturing and conventional textile production? Will 3D knitwear be available as ready-to-wear for ordinary consumers in the near future? We got to the bottom of this topic in more detail and we clarify all of these questions with the help of various expert opinions from the industry.

In order to understand the principle of 3D knitwear and its differences and similarities to 3D printing, it is first necessary to take a look at the definitions. Gihan Amarasiriwardena, co-founder and CEO of the Ministry of Supply, defines 3D printing as follows: “In 3D printing, molded products (such as plastics) are produced by adding a layer of material (often plastic or synthetic) according to a given digital Design is ‘printed’.” Rosanne van der Meer, designer and founder of New Industrial Order, offers a broader definition: “3D printing is the production of a three-dimensional shape on the basis of a filament that is formed by a machine.“ In fact, 3D printing is all about computer-controlled machines creating three-dimensional objects and building them up layer by layer. The question now remains whether 3D knitwear is made according to the same principle.

In 3D printing, the object is additively manufactured layer by layer.

Production of 3D Knitwear

The manufacturing process of 3D knitted fabrics is quite similar to other 3D objects. Both begin on a computer: CAD software is used to create the design and ultimately to obtain a programming language. The digital codes are then forwarded to the machine, which then begins the manufacturing process. However, the machine used is where knitwear and traditional 3D printing diverge. The primary difference from additive manufacturing is that the machine is not a 3D printer that processes filament or powder through extruders, rather, a knitting machine that can produce a three-dimensional garment in a single pass by uniting it thread by thread. Consequently, it should be noted that the principle is essentially the same both are based on software and are additively manufactured, but the material creates a big difference between the two methods.